Question and Answers

What scope should I use?

Kevin Says:

Sean. I plan to move from So Cal to Snowmass Village, Colorado within a year and want to take up Elk/Deer hunting when I get there. I have had my heart set on the Rem 700 Sendero SF 2 in .300RUM and figured I would choose the 150gr. Power Level 3 bullet to stick with because of the flat trajectory. My goal is to eventually be able to shoot out to 1000yds with the confidence that I could drop an elk that far.. not just injure it. I am concerned that I could spend hard earned money and get an inacurrate shooting 700 Sendero.

This will be my only high caliber rifle and want to get the right one the 1st time. That being said, should I go for the Leopold VX-7L w/ Boone & Crockett reticle, or save money and get a Bushnell Elite 6500?

Sean Says:

Well Kevin, I am glad you asked. Where most people go wrong is on the scope. It sounds like you are on the right path for a rifle though. I have heard nothing but good things about the Sendero, but I think your scope selection is wrong. When shooting long distance, it’s my opinion that to “hold over” is simply not very accurate for long distance. When we shoot at the long distances that we do, we owe it to the game to take them cleanly and with confidence. I think a better scope choice might be a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22X50. With the target turrets on the scope, you can dial for a Spot-on hold without ever using any Kentucky windage. I would also use a heavier bullet than a 150gr. The 150′s are great for close range shot out to say 400 yards and will be effected little by the elements out to that distance. However, I use a 210gr Berger Bullet and can push them well over +/-3200fps and they hit hard! On the Long Range Shooter Home page, under the picture, there is a download link to some ballistic software that you can download. Once there you can do some comparisons on different bullet weights for retained energy and bullet drop. For me bullet drop is never the problem, I can dial for that. What I needed was foot pounds of energy to righteously kill the game animal. I will be going to a 240gr as soon as Berger Bullets has them ready. Simply because a heavier bullet has a higher BC value and are effected less by wind drift. So, I think you should give it some thought.

Kevin Says:

Thanks for your advice. Glad to hear the Sendero is good. I wasn’t aware other manufacturers were making the .300 RUM. Will I need to get into reloading to shoot 1000yds accurately, because I would rather buy finished cartridges. Which reticle do you recommend for the NXS? Do you always adjust your scope so you can put the center crosshairs where you want to hit? The 240gr Berger.. is this a finished cartridge or just the projectile to be used in reloading?

Sean Says:

Well Kevin, it is a good idea to reload to get the most consistant accuracy, mainly to keep your shooting costs down and the 240gr Berger is not just a bullet. The Berger 240gr bullet has the highest BC value for any 30 cal. that I can find. As far as which reticle is best to use, I like the mil-dot type. With a mil-dot reticle, you can use it to range targets, do a spontaneous hold-over shot if you had too and it can be used to measure the distance that you would hold for windage and things of that nature. Oh yes, I always dial for every range that I shoot. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Kevin Says:

Now that I think about it, I’ll probably have plenty of time on my hands in the winters in Snowmass to take up reloading. And that way maybe it won’t be $3.00 a bullet?

Ok now that I know what rifle and scope to get, what range finder and what bipod do you recommend. Should I get a Harris Bipod that swivels for uneven surfaces and what size? Do I need a muzzle break, or is it brake?

Sean Says:

Well Kevin I will tell one thing, I too have a .300 Ultra Mag. Before I had a muzzle break installed on my rifle, I went to the range to site it in. I would shoot 20 to 40 rounds, but after 20 my fingers would tingle, my arm would be numb and I really had no desire to fire another round :lol: So, I would say a muzzle break would be a very good idea. Now as far as bipods go, Harris makes some very good bipods. However which heigth to get is up to the shooter. Just remember, any time longrifle men get a chance, they will attempt to prone out. The closer he/she is to the ground the more stable he/she will be. My bipods are usually 6in to 9in long. The range finder I currently have is the faithful Bushnell Elite 1500. I have used it to range a reflective target out to 1,660 yards and trees out to 1,115 yards in ideal conditions. But, I found this range finder to be interesting at times. But as long as you are not planning to go beyond 1,000 yards in the near future, than a range finder such as this is all you need. One thing I would suggest is, if you are going to buy a Bushnell Elite than don’t buy an ARC. If I were you, I would instead take the money and put it towards a PDA. I bought a good used PDA on eBay for $80.00. The software that I was telling you about on the front page, will upload to a PDA nicely, then it becomes Field Firing Solution. When it is set up it well tell you how much wind drift, how much to change your elevation for the angle that you are shooting and it will tell you how much to dial on your scope to hit the target. When you get a chance, go to Lex Talus Corporation and take a peek.

Kevin Says:

Your muzzle break looks like it is built into the barrel. Is that a custom barrel? What’s the 4th knob on your scope closest to the objective lense?

Do you use or suggest the $190 attachment by NXS to measure angle? How powerful is that software? Can you feed it gps info to calculate corialis effect? What do you use to measure the wind, or do you guestimate?

Sean Says:

I use a hand held wind speed indicator for the “at shooter position”.
But for mid range and at target there are a couple of tools-of-the-trade you can use to find out the wind speed. You can find that under the tips & tricks page on top.

Kevin Says:

I did a quick search on wind meters and it looks like the Kestrel 3500 Wind Meter has the minimum features I will need. Psi, Humidity, and temp, besides wind speed. I looked on Lex Talus.. what is DK: on the firing solution?

Sean Says:

Here is a link that talks about the DK and other functions of the software
I will do another product review on the new version that will come out soon. Click Here

Discussion

  • http://www.youtube.com/HoundRus Sam M

    Hey Sean. Man the Site looks great ! Getting better and better.

    -Keep It Down Range
    -Sam M

  • Kevin

    Sean,

    If you started over and were out to buy a new rifle, would you buy a new Remington 700, or buy an old bolt action, pre “X-pro trigger”, then piece together a rifle? If you would piece together a rifle I’d be curious to see the list w/ estimated prices.

  • http://longrangeshooter.com Sean

    If I was going to make or buy a different rifle, I would make it a 338 Lapua mag. Although I bet if you compared the ballistics of a 338 RUM and 338 Lapua, I bet the would be very similar. With the Remington probably being much cheaper than the Lapua. Like anything I would do a lot of research into it to make sure I was getting all that I wanted. I spent two years looking into it before I bought the rifle I have now.

  • Kevin

    New Sendero vs. piecing one together?

    I plan to stick with a Rem 700 and .300RUM I am curious about the idea of piecing together a Rem 700 so I could get an aftermarket stock with adjustable cheek piece and aftermarket bull barrel. Or should I stick with a stock Sendero with X-mark Pro trigger?

  • http://longrangeshooter.com Sean

    I heard that the Sendero can shoot very good right out of the box. But if I were in your shoes I would build one from the ground up. You could probably get more for less. It might take more time but I bet you would be happier in the end.

  • http://www.LongRangeShooter.com Mike

    Hello gents. Here is an update on my .300 RUM project. It is getting closer to being finished as it has been down at Mel Doyle’s Gun Shop for a week or so already. I will be delivering the 15moa Picatinny rail and the muzzle brake to Mel as soon as they arrive. Mel is also adjusting the trigger for me to 2.5-2.75lbs. The Millett scope and Knoxx Axiom Stock should be arriving next week as well. I will be installing them myself. I am hoping to fire the first rounds by the end of this month, so we’ll see how it does. I am rather excited about the possibility of shooting with my son as he is arriving home from Iraq the first part of Feb. He has been one of his companies snipers and has done quite well for himself, Dad is proud! He will then soon be off to Ranger school as I understand, go Son! That is definitely a young mans job. More later, Mike :{)

  • http://http://www.LongRangeShooter.com Mike

    To add my $.02 worth about the Monster Magnums. I believe I would choose the Weatherby .30/378 Mag, 28″ stainless fluted barrel and then scoped it with the new Millett LRS-1. Adjust the trigger, add a Harris Bi-Pod, trick Boyd’s custom thumbhole sporter stock and start bangin’ them out. At $5.00 @ round, there’s nothing like using a half-a-hat full of powder though! LOL All day dreaming aside, For the money spent-vs-fun/enjoyment/bang for your buck….I feel we have the ticket already with the 300RUM and the Weatherby 300 Mags we already have.

    Pray Hard, Stay Safe, Take a Kid and have some fun! :{)

  • Kevin

    If I build a .300RUM ground up, how do I acquire a pre-Xmark old Rem 700 action? Do I have to buy a used rifle? Is it the bolt action that carries the serial #? When you get an aftermarket barrel is there a serial # on it?

  • Lucas

    You’d have to buy a used rifle, or an older rifle that was never fired (they’re out there). The serial # is on the action and the barrel will often list make and caliber. Aftermarket barrels will not have any serial number on them. Many perfer an aftermarket trigger anyway so they don’t care much which trigger comes on the rifle.