Product Review


A couple of weeks ago I was contacted by Dan Weaver of B.O.S.S. Accuracy in which we had a discussion about scopes and there calibration. He mentioned that he had made some targets that would give you some very valuable information about your scope vs what the manufacturer tells you about it. So he was kind enough to sends me couple of targets to take a look at.

My first impression was how big it is and that the writing is big enough that you can clearly see it through your scope. To many times somebody may have a good target but make that MOA (minuet of angle) block lines or wording to small that it cant be seen clearly from the FFP (field firing position)
The target is very easy to use and setup but like most things that relate to long range shooting you only get as much as you put into it. If you are hastily in the setup proses or try to cut corners there would be no point in the effort you are going through. The main details to properly setup the target would include leveling the target to insure the accurate data from the elevation adjustments. A good 100 yards between you and the target.
You can use ether a laser range finder or a long steel tape measure or something similar. I would recommend using a tape measure because of the tolerances that accompany a laser range finder. Lastly a good solid shooting position to remove human error.

The first thing that I did was to check my scope click value and that my scope is true to my bore. This is simply done by by aiming at the bottom of one of the “Straight Tracking Channels”. Once you have your cross hairs sable on the center of the circle with the rifle held in place simply fire a 3 shot group into the circle. Note: If some sort of strapping system is used to secure the rifle make sure that it is not secured over the barrel as this will change your zero and accuracy. After you fire your group all that is needed is to dial you scope 15 MOA and shoot for the same spot as before. But now your bullets will hit 15 inch’s higher than your first 3 shot group. If you see your bullet impacts move outside of the “Straight Tracking Channels” than you know that your scope is not level with the bore of your gun. To fix this simply rotate your scope in the opposite direction. Once you fire your second 3 shot group it will hit on one of seven lines indicating the actual click value of your scope.

As you can see there are clear marks that tell you what your scope click value really is vs what you were told by the manufacturer. This target is setup for 1/4 MOA scopes and I am not sure if they are available in 1/8, 1/2 or full Min. And as luck would have it my scope dialed directly to .25 so that is a good thing even though I have done this in the past with a different scope I found this to be much faster and more accurate. Now you might be thinking, so what if my scope is off a bit and if you only shoot inside the first few 100 yards it would not make much difference. But here is some food for thought if your scope is .26 per click vs .25 and you were shooting at a target at 1,000 yards you would be almost a full minute off at the target which is the difference between a hit and a miss. So you can imagine if you are shooting beyond a 1,000 yards it starts to multiply very quickly. So if you are looking for cold bore hits doing this is a absolute necessity. Now that you have done that here comes the real test, scope repeatably. After you have shot your second three shot group dial your scope back to your zero and shoot again. Did they hit in the same spot? We all hope that they do but very few scopes are capable of doing that. In Dan Weavers words “Many weak or stressed erector springs will allow the system to settle in after a few shots but this certainly is not optimum”. A scope that cant come back to your zero after repeatably being changed to shoot at distant targets is absolutely useless. If you dialed for a shot at 1,000 yards and returned to your zero and then dialed for the 1,000 yard target again. Your impact would be different from the bullets you just fired if your scope could not be zeroed correctly. Very Important.

Now after I was done with that I decided to check the accuracy of the Mil dots in my scope. Very simple proses to do and all you need is a stable shooting position and to make sure that the target is level. As you can see from the target on the right is you can check your mil dots using one or two mils. I decided to use the one mil option and turned my power setting to 12.5. Now on my scope I have two option for mil dot ranging, 12.5 or 25 power. At 12.5 each mil dot and hash mark is one full mil and on 25 power each mil dot is one full mil and the hash marks are a half mil, very convenient. Now with my scope on 12.5 power and looking at the target. The mils in my scope lined up perfectly but when I turned to 25 power and checked again it did not line up. Now this is nothing wrong with the target it is just that the target pointed out a flaw in my scope. On 25 power each mil in my scope actually equals more like 3.3 instead of 3.6. Which tells me that my scope is probably not a true 25 power sense it lined up perfectly on 12.5. No big deal really as long as I know what it really is and with out this target I probably never would have thought about it twice. The best part is that the targets are very reasonably priced at only 3 dollars each. When I first saw this target I thought it would be in the price range of about 10 bucks so I was happy to see that is was so affordable. You can find these target at which also offers much more than just targets. I think that these targets would be a absolute for the long range shooter or hunter that is looking to get the most from his rifle and scope and I plan on using this target on a regular basses.


  • http://http:// Mike

    Nice!!! :{)

  • Dave Boday owner PLRH site

    I really enjoyed your article. The bossaccuracy system is perfect and something I was looking for.

    What scope were you using?

    I am checking out bossaccuracy and am going to order a few of those targets. Might even go to the local sign shop and have them blow it up 5 times to use at 500 yards so you can also get a feel for groups.

    I read your article on shooting past the distance that you expect to shoot game at and do believe that is true. I shoot 500 yards so much it is the new 100 yards and when walking it out its like 200, 300, 400 and 500 after that not 600, 700, 800 and 900.

    I got here from asrealasitgets and witnessed first hand some very harsh and horrible people. Be assured they will be banned immediately on my site if they show up.

    I have some instructional videos on youtube under PrecisionLRHunter bedding rifle, rcbs chargemaster, and removing a stuck screw from a scope ring. I am currently working on bedding a composite stock so its a bit different.

  • Sean

    Thank you very much Dave I am using the Millett LRS-1. For the money you cant beat it. I guess some people are having trouble with them but mine and many others that I know that have one have not had any trouble at all. Ah yes asrealasitgets….I stopped by to talk and share with others and did not get a very good welcome. Even my first post this guy bigstick was jumping down my throat. But I guess that guy bigstick has been kicked out of just about every forum on the internet. Hey doesn’t have many fans out there but what can you expect. I wasn’t going to get anywhere with them so I just left.
    I stopped by your site and its very nice. How long as it been running?

  • Dave

    Its been up since Oct 25th 2005. Most of us came from another site that had a huge censorship problem and had a gang of good ole boys.

    Your site is set up much better than ours, the layout is a lot better. I am working to update it to something like you guys have.

    I’m trying to connect to other sites that dont have a lot of members who are so bored and lonely all they can do is argue or refute each and every post.

    It seems your site has a bunch of good guys on it. We have a bunch of good guys too. I hope our sites can benefit from each other.

    Good to be connected with ya’ll and look forward to everything.

  • Sean

    Thanks Dave and yes everybody here are very good people. This is a magazine theme that is free from Dirty Blue Media that I just updated to about 8 or 9 months ago. This site has been up for about 2 years now but I really have got a big increase in traffic until I updated. Now my site has increased 800 percent in the last 8-9 months. The forum is new to, just about 6 or 7 months old but I would like to see more active members.

  • http://http://http://http:// Jim Lara

    Sir’s Hello – Sean and company at longrangeshooter. com

    RE: 300RUM for hunting, mule deer and elk to 600 – 700 yards approx.

    Do you have an opinion on equipment for a project rifle and conmponents
    for building a successful tool in this caliber?

    Action: type, example Trued – Rem 700 Long for 300RUM
    Barrel: type, contour, length, twist, throat, etc. (muzzle brake?)
    Stock: type, McMillan A-4, LOP, magnum fill.
    Trigger: type, Jewell @ 2.5#
    Optics: who’s optics, tube size, particular power, objective lense, etc.
    Bullet: manufacture, weight,(accurate but for hunting 200-800# animals)
    length for chamber OAL.

    Please let me know what works well, for a 300RUM, hunting rifle.

    Very Appreciated

    Jim Lara

  • Sean

    Well you can go as far as you like but before I start throwing out manufactures what kind of price range are we looking at? Scopes for example can range from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand depending on what you want to do.

  • http://http://http://http://http:// Jim Lara

    Sean Hello!

    Our scope budget will probably be in the $700.00 to $800.00 dollar range, if that $ covers the need, if not we will have to save up more?

    Something dependable/solid, Leupold is not out of the question?
    30MM tube is a possibility, its probably going on a Remington action, with a Kreiger varmint contour / fluted barrel, 1:10 twist.

    I’d like to do it right the first time, doing it twice is always
    more expensive. Appreciate your help. We do some shooting not a lot.
    Have done fairly well out to 4 hundred yards, want more insurance
    that we have the tools to get the job done (done right) out to 6 or maybe even 8 hundred yards. (we have plenty of room for improvement)

    Again your help, information, is very appreciated.

    Jim Lara

  • Sean

    Ok sorry it took me so long it has been very busy here.
    The Jewell trigger is good and the stock as long as the stock has a aluminum bedding in it. The barrel should be chosen for the type of bullet you want to shoot. Like a 210gr VLD should have a faster twist than 1-11 but a 208gr A-Max needs to be at least 1-9. I would suggest a fluted bull barrel even though it is not necessary it will decrease shot movement from the barrel heating up and from vibration. With the bullet you should look to find the best combo between a hunting bullet and a target bullet. So be looking for the highest BC hunting bullet that you can find BUT the BC that is given to a bullet is derived from the G1 model. The reason manufactures do that is because the G1 will give a higher BC for the bullet that is produced. Even though a bullet may not match the G1 model. For example, a boat tailed bullet with a G1 base BC of .690 may actually have a G7 based BC of only .344, sense the G7 drag model much more accurately describes its performance. As far as scope the best for the price would be a Leupold Mark 4 and you can get one at Cabelas right now for about 800 bucks;jsessionid=SAPIMVTF1E0XHLAQBBISCN3MCAEFEIWE?id=0048299710499a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=1710101&cm_ite=0048299710499a&_requestid=110368

    If you have any more questions please let me know

  • Mike

    I am switching scopes very soon and selling my range finder as well as my Millett LRS-1 scope. I have had great success with both of them and have no complaints with either of them. I have been reading up on the Shepherd Scopes and really like what they are doing with them. I will be buying a Shepherd to replace the Millett LRS-1 I have on my 300RUM and going to the Shepherd. I will share the results when I have them! :{)