Vertical deflection is when you have a head or tail wind. A tail wind will actually lower your point of impact. wile a head wind will rise it because of the angle of attack of the bullet.
Yes I love to hunt I just killed my first deer last year. 300yds… droped on her face! That footage was taken on Moon Peak in ID. This year I want to try to hit a target at a mile (1,760 yards) up there
I’m just getting into target shooting. my current range allows me shots up to 350 yards. my question is, is the .204 ruger a viable choice for that sort of range? I’ve heard it’s a flat trajectory fast little bullet I just don’t want to buy something too ‘wimpy’. I will not be doing any hunting, this is just straight group shooting.
well Tim that is a good question and it depends on how far you may plan to shoot in the future. To 350 yards you are probably fine the problem is that the further the bullet goes down range it doesn’t have enough retained energy to keep it flying flat. Its just like throwing a BB or a marble the more weight behind it the further and flatter it will go. Another thing to consider is that a bullet that light will be affected by wind much more than a bigger bullet. To get down to it, you will probably be fine. If this is something that you are very serious about doing I would suggest that you go to a 30 cal. or a .338 because when you are shooting for accuracy the BC (Ballistic Coefficient) value on the bullet plays a big part. I hope this answered your question if not please let me know?
You answered me question just fine. I don’t think I’ll be going beyond 350 yards any time soon and where i shoot is down the side of a fairly narrow river so i don’t think i should run into many issues with wind. However i still might go to something bigger just in case i ever do get out on a real open range.
Alright since you answered the last one so well I’ve got another for you. What kind of scope should i look for for the range i’ll be shooting in? i want to have a nice big picture of whatever target i’m shooting for so i’m currently looking at the Leupold VX-III 8.5-25×50mm Long Range Target. it’s got a high top end power and should suit me fine, I just wanna make sure I don’t miss out on something obvious.
When it comes to scopes everybody has there own opinion but when it comes to Leupold or Night Force not many people argue. Leupold has outstanding glass and I think the VX-3 will would be a great choice. Even if later in the future you plan to shoot farther than 350 yards. I would buy a Leupold or Night Force myself if my budget would allow it. As a tidbit the scope I use has been a great scope for much less here is a link if you want to see it. But understand, the VX-3 WILL BE a great scope. TRS-1
Absolutely, the BC (ballistic coefficient) rating on a bullet is a number given that explains how well the bullet can resist drag. And in most cases a ballistic tip bullet has a higher BC rating than a lead tip. But for the best accuracy, hollow points generally have the highest BC over all the rest. And in most cases the heaver the bullet, the higher the BC rating will be.
Hey Sean, I got a question about the 300 Winchester round. I know 300 comes in a couple different varieties and I was wondering if you could break down what the difference is between them and which load would be the preferred distance/target load. Thanks!
My last question was pretty vague. I meant to ask what the difference is performance-wise. I have been reading around that the WSM may not be the ideal round for long range shots, but Ive seen video of 1400+ shots being made with it. I was wondering if you had any insights on the topik. Thanks!
Well Heath I never actually fired a WSM. I’m not a really strong believer in that cartridge. I don’t see how the same weight bullet in a smaller case can give you the type of performance difference that they claim. But like I said, I have never fired one. If you haven’t bought a rifle yet. I would say that there are much better cartridges for the job. And the 1,400yds+ shot, the question you got to ask your self is, did it take one shot or several. Remember, even a blind squirrel finds a nut and with 10 shots I bet I could hit a target at 1,400yds with a 270 cal. What the key is to long range shooting is retained energy. You get retained energy with a heavy bullet at a high muzzle velocity for the capabilities of your rifle. If you wish I can give you a comparison on different cartridges in the same caliber with the same muzzle velocity if you would like, to give you a start
One thing I think may be in the rounds defense, making a shot at that length in multiple takes may simply be the shooters skill. I’m not dismissing your insight, I’m simply trying to convince myself of the caliber I want to settle with for long distance.
I currently shoot a Rem 700 in 308. I currently do precision shots, not distance. I have heard of the Rem 700 being pushed out to some impressive lengths for actual confirmed kills over in Irak. Would the 308 be a good substitute then for the 300WSM?
Well I did some research and found that a WSM has a tendency to have a little bit faster muzzle velocity in the same weight. The biggest deviation however was only about 120fps. Now if you were going to buy a rifle, why not buy one that pushes a 200 or even a 250gr bullet even faster than a 175gr. There really seems to be a bit of deference however between a 300 mag and a 300 WSM. I just don’t know if it would be worth the price of a new rifle. If you are going to be buying a new rifle try checking into a 300 weatherby or a ultra mag which I know are meant to be able to shoot long way, not just making a medium range cartridge do the job.
How bout 308? I shoot it all the time and it’s a very reliable round. Would it be a good round to “start off with”? I can always push for a larger caliber when I get ready to push 1 mile shots like yourself. *crosses fingers*
Thanks for the insight by the way, your knowledge base of marksmanship is quite impressive.
Well thank you very much. I just hit the books hard because no body could answer my question when I had one. That is the biggest reason that I wanted to make a website. I wanted to have all the info that somebody needed even if they have never fired a rifle before. Now the 308. That is a very good cal. I in fact shoot a 308. My rifle is a 300 ultra mag, and is quite capable of shooting just about as far as I want it to. It has also been shooting sub 3/4 MOA out of the box. If I was to go back I would look hard at a 338. Because of the heaver bullets available for it. But I get a 210gr. bullet out of the muzzle at over 3,200fps and it hits hard. when I shoot steal that the bullet won’t go through, the bullet explodes into dust at 1,300 yards. Once you settle on what you want to shoot I will make you a ballistic drop chart to get you started. Get a hold of me when you come this way and we will go shooting together.
To be honest you are actually the one who inspired me to even take my marksmanship skills to the test when I get out of the service here. I’ll be fast in your footsteps when I get out in December. See ya in June!
I will be looking forward to it. I would love to shoot with somebody that does the same type of shooting that I do. I’m still working on Chad, he will come around soon.
Hi.
I have a Winchester model 70 .300 RUM with a shepherds V1A with Leopold Rings. That keep coming loose I have tried every thing to keep it tight. The bases wont stay tight and she scope moves after 6 or 7 rounds. What kind of rings do you recommend?
I feel your pain; I had the same problem when I bought my first scope. That is one problem with the big guns is that you have to lock tight just about everything, but make sure that you don’t use the red stuff or you will never be able to get it off without using some sort of heat. The blue stuff or the purple works pretty good.
Here are the rings that I bought and have never had any problem with, even with high pressure loads. Click Here
Hi,
First, great site!!! You are very knowledgeable and this is a great idea.
Second, every time I post a comment in your Ballistic Blog, it never shows up.
Third… THE ACTUAL QUESTION! I used to have a .303 British Bolt Action Sportster. The greatest rifle I’ve ever owned (I believe you shot it a few times when you were younger). That gun seemed to always find the mark, even at exceptionally long ranges. Was that indicative of the .303 round or the rifle? I’m actually considering buying another .303
Is that a good idea if I want to try my hand at some Long rang shooting in the future? If not; what would you recommend?
Here is some data on the .303 round: Click Here
Justin
Well the accuracy was probably from the rifle unless you reload your own ammo in which case it could go ether way. When I bought my rifle I asked if it was fairly accurate out of the box and they told me that it was a crap shoot. It could be very accurate or not at all. Later I come to find out that Remington is notorious for exactly that. Now whether or not, the .303 British is the same, who’s to say. One thing I might be concerned about is the availability of the .303 round. If long range shooting is something that someone might be interested in, you can forget using factory ammo. So you would have to find brass and bullets. You might look at some bigger guns if you want to shoot long range but if you don’t plan on killing any deer then it might work just fine. Remember, any gun that can shoot sub MOA or sub 1 inch at a 100 is a fairly good rifle. After some time on the firing line and some tweaking on my loads I got my group down to 1 1/2 at 550yds.
i just baught a 300 rum i am pretty sure its what you have and i want to set it up for distance. a guy in my home group said i should check out your site…………awsome. well done.
can you e-mail me id like to talk to you a little about set-up………loads………..scope……etc!!!…………thanks
Good day to you Sean
i have just purchased a Leupold Leupold Mark 4 LR/T M1 Scope 60070, 8.5-25x
Variable, 50mm Objective,
Matte finish, TMR Reticle and am about to put it on my 223 Remington cz527 rifle what sort of distances are 223 s good out to. I am using a 55 grain sierra fmj
is the cz 527 allowed for bench rest competition i am based in Zimbabwe i find it a great rifle for varmint
regards
Sean Parkin
Hello there Sean. I would say that a round that small is probably ok to about 300 yards if you are just target shooting. If you are planing to hunt any BIG game I would say 100 yards but for varmint hunting it should be fine. As far as bench competition its hard to say, but I will say that most people will probably be shooting 30 cal. or bigger because of the retained energy that is achieved from the heaver rounds, which in return gives you less wind drift and better accuracy.
Sean. I plan to move from So Cal to Snowmass Village, Colorado within a year, and want to take up Elk/deer hunting when I get there. I have had my heart set on the Rem 700 Sendero SF 2 in .300RUM and figured I would choose the 150gr. Power Level 3 bullet to stick with because of the flat trajectory. My goal is to eventually be able to shoot out to 1000yds with the confidence that I could drop an elk that far.. not just injure it. I am concerned that I could spend hard earned money and get an inacurrate shooting 700 Sendero.
This will be my only high caliber rifle and want to get the right one the 1st time. That being said, should I go for the Leopold VX-7L w/ Boone & Crockett reticle, or save money and get a Bushnell Elite 6500?
Well Kevin I am glad you asked. Where most people go wrong is on the scope, it sounds like you are on the right path for a rifle. I have heard nothing but good things about the Sendero but I think your scope selection is wrong. When shooting long distance its my opinion that to “hold over” is not very accurate for long distance and when we shoot at the range that we do I think we owe it to the game to take a deer or elk clean and with confidence. I think a better scope choice might be a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22X50. With the target turrets on the scope you can dial for a dead on hold without ever using any Kentucky wind. I also would us a heavier bullet than a 150gr. I use a 210 and can push it well over 3000fps and it hits hard. On the home page under the picture there is a download link to some ballistic software you can download and do some comparisons on different weight bullets for retained energy and bullet drop. For me drop was never the problem, I can dial for that. What I needed was foot pounds of energy to kill game. I will be going to a 240gr as soon as Berger Bullets has it ready because a heavier bullet has a higher BC value and less wind drift, so I think should give it some thought.
Thanks for your advice. Glad to hear the Sendero is good. I wasn’t aware other manufacturers were making the .300 RUM. Will I need to get into reloading to shoot 1000yds accurately, because I would rather buy finished cartridges. Which reticle do you recommend for the NXS? Do you always adjust your scope so you can put the center crosshairs where you want to hit? The 240gr Berger.. is this a finished cartridge or just the projectile to be used in reloading?
Well Kevin it is a good idea to reload to get the best accuracy and the 240gr Berger is just a bullet. It has the highest BC value for 30 cal. that I can find. As far as which reticule, I like mil dot type. With a mil dot reticule you can use it to range targets, do a hold over shot if you had to and it gives you a way a measuring the distance that you would hold for wind and things of that nature. O and I always dial for every range that I shoot. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Now that I think about it, I’ll probably have plenty of time on my hands in the winters in Snowmass to take up reloading. And that way maybe it won’t be $3.00 a bullet?
Ok now that I know what rifle and scope to get, what range finder and what bipod do you recommend. Should I get a Harris Bipod that swivels for uneven surfaces and what size? Do I need a muzzle break, or is it brake?
Well I will tell one thing, I as well have a 300 ultra mag and before I put a muzzle break on my rifle, when I went to the range to site in. I would shoot 20 to 40 rounds but after 20 my fingers would tingle, my arm would be numb and I really had no desire to fire another round So I would say a muzzle break would be a good idea. Now as far as bipods Harris makes very good bipods but what height is a little up to the shooter. Just remember, any time a long rifle men gets a chance, he will attempted to prone out. The closer he or she is to the ground the more stable he or she will be. My bipods are 6in to 9in long. The range finder that I have is the Bushnell Elite 1500. I have ranged a reflective target out to 1,660 and a tree at 1,115 yards in ideal conditions. But I found this range finder and its sound interesting. But as long as you are not planning to go beyond 1,000 yards, than a range finder capable of doing that is all you need. One thing I would suggest is if you are going to buy a Bushnell Elite than don’t buy a ARC. If I were you than I would take the money and put it towards a PDA. I bought a PDA on eBay for 80 bucks. That software that I was telling you about on the front page will upload to a PDA. Then it becomes Field Firing Solution. When it is set up it well tell you how much wind drift, how much to change your elevation for the angle that you are shooting and it will tell you how much to dial on your scope to hit the target. When you get a chance go to Lex Talus Corporation and take a peek.
Your muzzle break looks like it is built into the barrel. Is that a custom barrel? What’s the 4th knob on your scope closest to the objective lense?
Do you use or suggest the $190 attachment by NXS to measure angle? How powerful is that software? Can you feed it gps info to calculate corialis effect? What do you use to measure the wind, or do you guestimate?
The muzzle break was tapered to the size of my barrel so it looks like one. And on my scope I only have the three knobs one for elavation, one for wind and one for focos. And the angle cosine that you are talking about is worth the money, it works very good.
And the software takes into account everything from powder temp to Coriolis and vertical deflection.
I use a wind speed indicator for the at shooter position.
But for mid range and at target there are a couple of tools you can use to find out the wind speed. You can find out how to do that under the tips & tricks page on top.
I did a quick search on wind meters and it looks like the Kestrel 3500 Wind Meter has the minimum features I will need. Psi, Humidity, and temp, besides wind speed. I looked on Lex Talus.. what is DK: on the firing solution?
Here is a link that talks about the DK and other function of the software
I will do another product review on the new version that will come out soon. Click Here
The Kestrel 3500 does all that. I read that link & still don’t know what DK is, or is it drag coefficient?
I’m glad I found your site. I am stoked about the field firing solution software. I didn’t think I was going to be able to compute everything to make an accurate cold bore shot.
Ok I am going to send you some info of DK. It is basically the way that the software accounts for bullet drop. One other thing is the Night Force scope cost allot of money, money that even I can’t afford.
So on that note here is the scope that I have. It has all the same features and some the Night Force does not for allot less. You can buy it on Midwayusa.com for about 500 dollars. And if you want to drop your cost more I have a Remington Model 700 300 ultra mag and with a bedding block will shot a 1 1/2 at 550 yards without trouble and it will cost less than 500 dollars. And you will save money when you start to reload to. Here is some of the equipments that I have. Stock “third one down” BiPod Range finder Scope Rifle
Well Night Force really is top dog as far as it comes to quality.
But other than that I don’t know. I do know however that Millett gives
a life time manufacturers warranty and Night Force does not.
Well if Millet gets the job done, then I guess I should save the money there and consider that $600 range finder. I saw the breakdown for the Elite 1500. 500yds for a deer, 1000yds for a tree and 1500yds for a reflective target. I wonder what the breakdown is for the Newcon LRM200PRO. I like how LRM tells you how strong of a reflection it is getting to determine if it is an accurate range reading or not.
I jumped the gun. The Elite 1500 is water proof and I will be hunting in snow. I read the Chuck Hawks review on the 1500 and I imagine that by the time I am shooting far out that there will be another better cheaper range finder on the market.
It looks like that bipod you suggested has more features than the Harris. I guess I am getting to the nitty gritty of my shopping list. What muzzle break for the Sendero?
Well the muzzle break that I have was made for me by a local gun smith. I said that I wanted less recoil and less muzzle jump for faster
shot recovery. And he made one that works perfect. So maybe make a couple of phone calls and see what you can find. You should be looking for something with about three chambers on it.
I read about muzzle brakes on Chuck Hawks page. Apparently they make the rifle way louder? He says muzzle brakes are illegal in Africa because it destroys the hearing of the guides not wearing hearing protection. He also said that even with hearing protection it can ruin your hearing. I guess I will wait and see if I desire one.
Great site man! Looks like you still can not shoot straight! LOL
Let us get together soon and go to Moon Pass and dump some ammo. My .338/06 is at Mel Doyle’s in Plummer getting that new Muzzle Break put on it, finally. I did miss that Elk last year at 630yards according to my new Bushnell 1500 ARC! Give me a ring when you have a chance.
PS. how is your Hydrogen fuel cell working by the way….?
Take care buddy, Mike :{)
The big round thing is a barrel de resonator. It changes the harmonics
of the barrel for better accuracy. I have not had a chance to shoot with it yet but as soon as I do I will put a post on the website.
O and a muzzle break is MUCH louder so keep that in mind.
hello. what would be the cost of getting into the sport and what caliber to use. i am 16 and weigh 70kg 6foot 1 inch i was thinking the 338 lupa of 308. any info would be great.
Well the cost can go just about as far as you want. If you want to compete professionally, you should expect to pay about at the VERY least 1,500 to 2,000 dollars for a rifle and about the same for a good scope. Plus the cost of your every day equipment. But that does not mean that you can’t do the same for less. One thing that I take pride in is doing what the other guy can do with less equipment and for half the cost. My total for gun, scope and equipment is about 2,200 and that includes range finder, muzzle break, new stock, PDA, good ballistic software, bipods and a very good scope. Now there is always going to be something new for shooting or something else that is better than what you bought last year and its up to you to decide when to call it quits. And as far as caliber, I would say that 308 or 338 would be the best choice. They are all around good bullets.
I need to figure out what height rings I need to get my scope closer to the barrel, but not sure how to measure. When ordering rings, do they measure from the centerline of the scope to the top of the base?
Well don’t quote me on this but I’m pretty sure that they measure from the bottom of the scope tube to the top of the base. Most of the time if you have a ring in mind, when you oder it tell the the size of the objective (i.e. 50mm) and tell them that you need rings for that size and they should know if you need small, medium or high rings. When I had my 50mm I only had medium rings and it give me about 3/16 clearance between the bottom of the objective to the top of my barrel.
Thanks for keeping a nice clean site I’m new here but have been lurking around alot of sites for awhile, I was pleasantly suprised when I cautiously opened the pic a nice view you’d be suprised what that means “out there”. I endorse your .308 as a beginner cartridge i’ve been shooting one for 20 yrs+ and find it just as awesome as it was in service to our country. Don’t get to go long-range around here much due to geography but still get a thrill making contact at all ranges. my rig is a fn p.b.r. w\ a mcmillan a-3 in .308 usually shoot off expedient bags. sorry for such a windy reply just glad to find some kindred spirits.
Forgot to talk about glass Leupold has never let me down I own several from m-8 fixed 4x on a .30-06 {shoots under 1 moa easily} to my 4-12 VX-II on my pbr. I was really exited when they started putting clicks in th VX-II’s. Stoney point makes really nice knobs for these that screw on in place of your caps. I also have an older Leupold on a 6-284 in 6-18 that doesn’t have clicks and I find myself using Kentucky windage on it instead of proven dope. I have tried some expensive europeans like Kahles and Zeiss and they are good but everyone has to decide how much is good enough. Leupold VX-II’s seem to be where I look first. Have 2 Burris a scout scope on a .35 whelen and a 4-12 compact I’m planning on trying on my 6-284 it’s a lightweight deer rig. They were both bargains from Midway and are not proven much yet, the scout scope is only 2yrs old.
Thank you f.n.user, it is nice to hear there are still good people out there. And as far as Leupold I cant agree more. I wish I could afford a Mark 4 but it is a bit out of my price range. The scope I have now is a LRS-1 and for the price I could not do better. The glass is more like Bushnell but that is good enough for me. Any way welcome to LongRangeShooter and if there is any thing that you need or any suggestions or topics you would like to talk about please don’t hesitate to ask. You can leave you question here or you can email me at sean@longrangeshooter.com
hello
Hope you can help me!
My husband seen a program about something called HUSKAMAW scope..i have searched the web everywhere..can you give me a site to look at it..or at least explain what i am looking for……Christmas shopping….ty
Absolutely, Huskamaw is a scope that most people think that John Burns uses to shoot long range, but its not. Here is a link that explains what it is you are looking at. And here is a link that has the Huskamaw scope for sell to buy for your husband. Hope this helps if you need more info let me know.
Thank you so much!
I am pleasently surprised at how reasonably priced the Huskamaw scope is…thinking i will have a happy fella at Christmas.:smile:
I am sure i would have never found it is not for your help!!
Aaalo there Sean. How about giving me a call and let us get out there before season opens, sometime soon huh. Maybe we can go up there by your place, if it goes out there to 500 or so would be fine. I had the chance to watch that movie again and witness one of those .30/378 Weatherby Magnums smoke an Antelope around 1012 yards! Interesting scope he uses, I wonder what it is? Absolutely incredible man, then there was another guy right next to him that backed it up with a 1116 yard shot and dumped another Antelope! Simply incredible! Did you see his wife’s shot too, she is no bigger than half a minute, she dumped that Bull Elk while it was walking at a fantastic 840yards! I did get my son’s rifle done by the way. The 8mm/06 with the thumbhole sporter. Sure looks nice with the laminated stock. I’ll bring it when we go out. Take care, stay safe and many Blessings to you and yours!
Mike :{)
Sean, what an enjoyable afternoon. Thanks again so very much. I look forward to going again soon. It was amazing to see the bullet drop/windage we used to get that ole’ .338/06 to smack that little piece of steel! 4′ for windage and about 20′ for drop, LOL! That 8mm/06 sure shot nicely too! I really enjoyed shooting yours though, what a schweet rifle thanks again.
Sean, have you had the chance to watch that Thompson’s Long Range Shooting video? Do you know what type of scope he uses to make those Long Range shots, the one that you can use the camera with and see on screen what the shooter actually ses?
:{)
Hey there Sean…Melvin and I were talking. I challeneged him and his .300 Weatherby Mag to the 600yard shoot this weekend when he is off, Fewest bullets to get it. I’ll bring my range finder to satisfy his curiousity :{)
I will be there, can I join the challenge
By the way I haven’t watched the Thompson Long Range video yet so I don’t know what scope they use and I tried to look for it on the internet but could not find it.
Nice site! I shoot long 600 yds almost weekly. I use a Rem 40-X in .308 and also do all load test groups at 300 yds. The bullet hasn’t had a chance to go to sleep at 100 yds. Also, the group has a tendency to be so small that it’s hard to get a definative size as the .308 hole just gets bigger. I normally run a Sierra 175 gn HPBT behind 43.1 gn of Varget. One thing I noticed was your use of 210 gn bullets in a .308? What kind of twist does your barrel have? 1 in 10? A 1 in 12 twist doesn’t seem to like the heavier bullets. My twist lets me go up to 180 gn and easily carries 1000 yds. Much beyond that it becomes a stretch. Last question, do you breakin your barrels? Keep up the good work!
Well the 210gr bullets that I use suggest a 1 in 11 inch twist but my 1 in 12 doesn’t seem to have a problem shooting them. Behind my 210gr Berger is 94.5 grains of Hodgens H1000, pushing my bullets to about 3200fps holding just over a half inch at 200 yards. But if I use 95 grains, my bullet becomes so unstable that it will tumble and actually hit a target sideways at 100 yards. Berger bullets are wild cats but when you get the load right the are the best you can get. As far as breaking in a barrel, absolutely. That was the first thing that I did when I got my rifle. It is really the only way to go if you want the best accuracy.
Well assuming that he is using a 40 grain lead bullet that would put the muzzle velocity a little bit over 1,050 fps. Now if he has a zero at 100 yards (which he probably does not), he would have about 3 feet of bullet drop at 200 yards and about 64 ft-lb of energy. Now are we talking a kill on deer size game or small game like birds? Because if he is saying he can kill a deer at 200 yards
I would say he couldn’t kill a dog at that range.
actually I suspect he was watching this tv show the shooter or what ever and the rest is TV….. He said a Deer and he is full of a dark brown matter and he has his head in a dark smelly place!!!!!!!!
I am in the process of building my .308 (POF Lower, DPMS SASS Upper, w/ Super Sniper 20×42 scope - was at a price I couldn’t pass up). The majority of my shooting history comes from being in the USMC (5.56 500yrds on Iron Sights) I’m interested in getting into some longer range shooting for future applications (plinking and hunting) would it be possible Sean to get a copy of the Ballistic Drop Chart you mentioned back on May 20th?
I was just wondering what vertical deflection is?
In reference to Vertical Deflection
Vertical deflection is when you have a head or tail wind. A tail wind will actually lower your point of impact. wile a head wind will rise it because of the angle of attack of the bullet.
Clay (my supervisor) at Century Publishing, said you had an awesome web site; he was right. -Do you do any hunting?
I also wanted to know were you filmed that footage?
In reference to Hunting
Yes I love to hunt I just killed my first deer last year. 300yds… droped on her face! That footage was taken on Moon Peak in ID. This year I want to try to hit a target at a mile (1,760 yards) up there
Hey,
I’m just getting into target shooting. my current range allows me shots up to 350 yards. my question is, is the .204 ruger a viable choice for that sort of range? I’ve heard it’s a flat trajectory fast little bullet I just don’t want to buy something too ‘wimpy’. I will not be doing any hunting, this is just straight group shooting.
In reference to the .204 Ruger
well Tim that is a good question and it depends on how far you may plan to shoot in the future. To 350 yards you are probably fine the problem is that the further the bullet goes down range it doesn’t have enough retained energy to keep it flying flat. Its just like throwing a BB or a marble the more weight behind it the further and flatter it will go. Another thing to consider is that a bullet that light will be affected by wind much more than a bigger bullet. To get down to it, you will probably be fine. If this is something that you are very serious about doing I would suggest that you go to a 30 cal. or a .338 because when you are shooting for accuracy the BC (Ballistic Coefficient) value on the bullet plays a big part. I hope this answered your question if not please let me know?
You answered me question just fine. I don’t think I’ll be going beyond 350 yards any time soon and where i shoot is down the side of a fairly narrow river so i don’t think i should run into many issues with wind. However i still might go to something bigger just in case i ever do get out on a real open range.
thanks for the quick answer.
Alright since you answered the last one so well I’ve got another for you. What kind of scope should i look for for the range i’ll be shooting in? i want to have a nice big picture of whatever target i’m shooting for so i’m currently looking at the Leupold VX-III 8.5-25×50mm Long Range Target. it’s got a high top end power and should suit me fine, I just wanna make sure I don’t miss out on something obvious.
In reference to Leupold
When it comes to scopes everybody has there own opinion but when it comes to Leupold or Night Force not many people argue. Leupold has outstanding glass and I think the VX-3 will would be a great choice. Even if later in the future you plan to shoot farther than 350 yards. I would buy a Leupold or Night Force myself if my budget would allow it. As a tidbit the scope I use has been a great scope for much less here is a link if you want to see it. But understand, the VX-3 WILL BE a great scope. TRS-1
Question about bullets, Is a ballistic tip better than an Soft tip in long range shooting?
In reference to Ballistic Tip
Absolutely, the BC (ballistic coefficient) rating on a bullet is a number given that explains how well the bullet can resist drag. And in most cases a ballistic tip bullet has a higher BC rating than a lead tip. But for the best accuracy, hollow points generally have the highest BC over all the rest. And in most cases the heaver the bullet, the higher the BC rating will be.
Hey Sean, I got a question about the 300 Winchester round. I know 300 comes in a couple different varieties and I was wondering if you could break down what the difference is between them and which load would be the preferred distance/target load. Thanks!
My last question was pretty vague. I meant to ask what the difference is performance-wise. I have been reading around that the WSM may not be the ideal round for long range shots, but Ive seen video of 1400+ shots being made with it. I was wondering if you had any insights on the topik. Thanks!
In reference to 300 Winchester
Well Heath I never actually fired a WSM. I’m not a really strong believer in that cartridge. I don’t see how the same weight bullet in a smaller case can give you the type of performance difference that they claim. But like I said, I have never fired one. If you haven’t bought a rifle yet. I would say that there are much better cartridges for the job. And the 1,400yds+ shot, the question you got to ask your self is, did it take one shot or several. Remember, even a blind squirrel finds a nut and with 10 shots I bet I could hit a target at 1,400yds with a 270 cal. What the key is to long range shooting is retained energy. You get retained energy with a heavy bullet at a high muzzle velocity for the capabilities of your rifle. If you wish I can give you a comparison on different cartridges in the same caliber with the same muzzle velocity if you would like, to give you a start
One thing I think may be in the rounds defense, making a shot at that length in multiple takes may simply be the shooters skill. I’m not dismissing your insight, I’m simply trying to convince myself of the caliber I want to settle with for long distance.
I currently shoot a Rem 700 in 308. I currently do precision shots, not distance. I have heard of the Rem 700 being pushed out to some impressive lengths for actual confirmed kills over in Irak. Would the 308 be a good substitute then for the 300WSM?
In reference to 300 Winchester
Well I did some research and found that a WSM has a tendency to have a little bit faster muzzle velocity in the same weight. The biggest deviation however was only about 120fps. Now if you were going to buy a rifle, why not buy one that pushes a 200 or even a 250gr bullet even faster than a 175gr. There really seems to be a bit of deference however between a 300 mag and a 300 WSM. I just don’t know if it would be worth the price of a new rifle. If you are going to be buying a new rifle try checking into a 300 weatherby or a ultra mag which I know are meant to be able to shoot long way, not just making a medium range cartridge do the job.
How bout 308? I shoot it all the time and it’s a very reliable round. Would it be a good round to “start off with”? I can always push for a larger caliber when I get ready to push 1 mile shots like yourself. *crosses fingers*
Thanks for the insight by the way, your knowledge base of marksmanship is quite impressive.
In reference to 308
Well thank you very much. I just hit the books hard because no body could answer my question when I had one. That is the biggest reason that I wanted to make a website. I wanted to have all the info that somebody needed even if they have never fired a rifle before. Now the 308. That is a very good cal. I in fact shoot a 308. My rifle is a 300 ultra mag, and is quite capable of shooting just about as far as I want it to. It has also been shooting sub 3/4 MOA out of the box. If I was to go back I would look hard at a 338. Because of the heaver bullets available for it. But I get a 210gr. bullet out of the muzzle at over 3,200fps and it hits hard. when I shoot steal that the bullet won’t go through, the bullet explodes into dust at 1,300 yards. Once you settle on what you want to shoot I will make you a ballistic drop chart to get you started. Get a hold of me when you come this way and we will go shooting together.
I will be looking forward to it. I would love to shoot with somebody that does the same type of shooting that I do. I’m still working on Chad, he will come around soon.
Hi.
I have a Winchester model 70 .300 RUM with a shepherds V1A with Leopold Rings. That keep coming loose I have tried every thing to keep it tight. The bases wont stay tight and she scope moves after 6 or 7 rounds. What kind of rings do you recommend?
In reference to Winchester model 70
I feel your pain; I had the same problem when I bought my first scope. That is one problem with the big guns is that you have to lock tight just about everything, but make sure that you don’t use the red stuff or you will never be able to get it off without using some sort of heat. The blue stuff or the purple works pretty good.
Here are the rings that I bought and have never had any problem with, even with high pressure loads.
Click Here
Hi,
First, great site!!! You are very knowledgeable and this is a great idea.
Second, every time I post a comment in your Ballistic Blog, it never shows up.
Third… THE ACTUAL QUESTION! I used to have a .303 British Bolt Action Sportster. The greatest rifle I’ve ever owned (I believe you shot it a few times when you were younger). That gun seemed to always find the mark, even at exceptionally long ranges. Was that indicative of the .303 round or the rifle? I’m actually considering buying another .303
Is that a good idea if I want to try my hand at some Long rang shooting in the future? If not; what would you recommend?
Here is some data on the .303 round: Click Here
Justin
Well the accuracy was probably from the rifle unless you reload your own ammo in which case it could go ether way. When I bought my rifle I asked if it was fairly accurate out of the box and they told me that it was a crap shoot. It could be very accurate or not at all. Later I come to find out that Remington is notorious for exactly that. Now whether or not, the .303 British is the same, who’s to say. One thing I might be concerned about is the availability of the .303 round. If long range shooting is something that someone might be interested in, you can forget using factory ammo. So you would have to find brass and bullets. You might look at some bigger guns if you want to shoot long range but if you don’t plan on killing any deer then it might work just fine. Remember, any gun that can shoot sub MOA or sub 1 inch at a 100 is a fairly good rifle. After some time on the firing line and some tweaking on my loads I got my group down to 1 1/2 at 550yds.
i just baught a 300 rum i am pretty sure its what you have and i want to set it up for distance. a guy in my home group said i should check out your site…………awsome. well done.
can you e-mail me id like to talk to you a little about set-up………loads………..scope……etc!!!…………thanks
Congrates on your pro Freedom site Sean. This is the site for me!!!:!:
Terry from Tennessee.
Thank you very much Terry from Tennessee I will do my best to keep new info up as much as possible
Good day to you Sean
i have just purchased a Leupold Leupold Mark 4 LR/T M1 Scope 60070, 8.5-25x
Variable, 50mm Objective,
Matte finish, TMR Reticle and am about to put it on my 223 Remington cz527 rifle what sort of distances are 223 s good out to. I am using a 55 grain sierra fmj
is the cz 527 allowed for bench rest competition i am based in Zimbabwe i find it a great rifle for varmint
regards
Sean Parkin
Hello there Sean. I would say that a round that small is probably ok to about 300 yards if you are just target shooting. If you are planing to hunt any BIG game I would say 100 yards but for varmint hunting it should be fine. As far as bench competition its hard to say, but I will say that most people will probably be shooting 30 cal. or bigger because of the retained energy that is achieved from the heaver rounds, which in return gives you less wind drift and better accuracy.
Sean. I plan to move from So Cal to Snowmass Village, Colorado within a year, and want to take up Elk/deer hunting when I get there. I have had my heart set on the Rem 700 Sendero SF 2 in .300RUM and figured I would choose the 150gr. Power Level 3 bullet to stick with because of the flat trajectory. My goal is to eventually be able to shoot out to 1000yds with the confidence that I could drop an elk that far.. not just injure it. I am concerned that I could spend hard earned money and get an inacurrate shooting 700 Sendero.
This will be my only high caliber rifle and want to get the right one the 1st time. That being said, should I go for the Leopold VX-7L w/ Boone & Crockett reticle, or save money and get a Bushnell Elite 6500?
Well Kevin I am glad you asked. Where most people go wrong is on the scope, it sounds like you are on the right path for a rifle. I have heard nothing but good things about the Sendero but I think your scope selection is wrong. When shooting long distance its my opinion that to “hold over” is not very accurate for long distance and when we shoot at the range that we do I think we owe it to the game to take a deer or elk clean and with confidence. I think a better scope choice might be a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22X50. With the target turrets on the scope you can dial for a dead on hold without ever using any Kentucky wind. I also would us a heavier bullet than a 150gr. I use a 210 and can push it well over 3000fps and it hits hard. On the home page under the picture there is a download link to some ballistic software you can download and do some comparisons on different weight bullets for retained energy and bullet drop. For me drop was never the problem, I can dial for that. What I needed was foot pounds of energy to kill game. I will be going to a 240gr as soon as Berger Bullets has it ready because a heavier bullet has a higher BC value and less wind drift, so I think should give it some thought.
Thanks for your advice. Glad to hear the Sendero is good. I wasn’t aware other manufacturers were making the .300 RUM. Will I need to get into reloading to shoot 1000yds accurately, because I would rather buy finished cartridges. Which reticle do you recommend for the NXS? Do you always adjust your scope so you can put the center crosshairs where you want to hit? The 240gr Berger.. is this a finished cartridge or just the projectile to be used in reloading?
Well Kevin it is a good idea to reload to get the best accuracy and the 240gr Berger is just a bullet. It has the highest BC value for 30 cal. that I can find. As far as which reticule, I like mil dot type. With a mil dot reticule you can use it to range targets, do a hold over shot if you had to and it gives you a way a measuring the distance that you would hold for wind and things of that nature. O and I always dial for every range that I shoot. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Now that I think about it, I’ll probably have plenty of time on my hands in the winters in Snowmass to take up reloading. And that way maybe it won’t be $3.00 a bullet?
Ok now that I know what rifle and scope to get, what range finder and what bipod do you recommend. Should I get a Harris Bipod that swivels for uneven surfaces and what size? Do I need a muzzle break, or is it brake?
Well I will tell one thing, I as well have a 300 ultra mag and before I put a muzzle break on my rifle, when I went to the range to site in. I would shoot 20 to 40 rounds but after 20 my fingers would tingle, my arm would be numb and I really had no desire to fire another round
So I would say a muzzle break would be a good idea. Now as far as bipods Harris makes very good bipods but what height is a little up to the shooter. Just remember, any time a long rifle men gets a chance, he will attempted to prone out. The closer he or she is to the ground the more stable he or she will be. My bipods are 6in to 9in long. The range finder that I have is the Bushnell Elite 1500. I have ranged a reflective target out to 1,660 and a tree at 1,115 yards in ideal conditions. But I found this range finder and its sound interesting. But as long as you are not planning to go beyond 1,000 yards, than a range finder capable of doing that is all you need. One thing I would suggest is if you are going to buy a Bushnell Elite than don’t buy a ARC. If I were you than I would take the money and put it towards a PDA. I bought a PDA on eBay for 80 bucks. That software that I was telling you about on the front page will upload to a PDA. Then it becomes Field Firing Solution. When it is set up it well tell you how much wind drift, how much to change your elevation for the angle that you are shooting and it will tell you how much to dial on your scope to hit the target. When you get a chance go to Lex Talus Corporation and take a peek.
Your muzzle break looks like it is built into the barrel. Is that a custom barrel? What’s the 4th knob on your scope closest to the objective lense?
Do you use or suggest the $190 attachment by NXS to measure angle? How powerful is that software? Can you feed it gps info to calculate corialis effect? What do you use to measure the wind, or do you guestimate?
The muzzle break was tapered to the size of my barrel so it looks like one. And on my scope I only have the three knobs one for elavation, one for wind and one for focos. And the angle cosine that you are talking about is worth the money, it works very good.
And the software takes into account everything from powder temp to Coriolis and vertical deflection.
Do you just guess the windspeed?
I use a wind speed indicator for the at shooter position.
But for mid range and at target there are a couple of tools you can use to find out the wind speed. You can find out how to do that under the tips & tricks page on top.
I did a quick search on wind meters and it looks like the Kestrel 3500 Wind Meter has the minimum features I will need. Psi, Humidity, and temp, besides wind speed. I looked on Lex Talus.. what is DK: on the firing solution?
Here is a link that talks about the DK and other function of the software
I will do another product review on the new version that will come out soon. Click Here
Also make sure you have a way to adjust for your altitude and barometric pressure.
The Kestrel 3500 does all that. I read that link & still don’t know what DK is, or is it drag coefficient?
I’m glad I found your site. I am stoked about the field firing solution software. I didn’t think I was going to be able to compute everything to make an accurate cold bore shot.
What range do you zero your rifle at? I noticed on the Remington ballistic chart, they suggest 250yds.
http://www.cpcartridge.com/300ultraP.htm
Rifle: $1000 to $1300 Sendero
Scope: $1600 Nightforce on sale
Laser Rangefinder: $600
Windmeter: $200
Ballistic Software: $150
BiPod: $100 http://www.harrisbipods.com/HBRMS.html
PDA: $100?
Box of 20 bullets: $60
Total: $3810
Ok I am going to send you some info of DK. It is basically the way that the software accounts for bullet drop. One other thing is the Night Force scope cost allot of money, money that even I can’t afford.
So on that note here is the scope that I have. It has all the same features and some the Night Force does not for allot less. You can buy it on Midwayusa.com for about 500 dollars. And if you want to drop your cost more I have a Remington Model 700 300 ultra mag and with a bedding block will shot a 1 1/2 at 550 yards without trouble and it will cost less than 500 dollars. And you will save money when you start to reload to. Here is some of the equipments that I have.
Stock “third one down”
BiPod
Range finder
Scope
Rifle
And as far as what range to zero, I would zero at about 300 yards because for me at 317 yard zero that will give me a point blank range of 400 yards.
I am ok with the cost of the Sendero but is there a reason to get the NXS over the LRS?
Well Night Force really is top dog as far as it comes to quality.
But other than that I don’t know. I do know however that Millett gives
a life time manufacturers warranty and Night Force does not.
Well if Millet gets the job done, then I guess I should save the money there and consider that $600 range finder. I saw the breakdown for the Elite 1500. 500yds for a deer, 1000yds for a tree and 1500yds for a reflective target. I wonder what the breakdown is for the Newcon LRM200PRO. I like how LRM tells you how strong of a reflection it is getting to determine if it is an accurate range reading or not.
I jumped the gun. The Elite 1500 is water proof and I will be hunting in snow. I read the Chuck Hawks review on the 1500 and I imagine that by the time I am shooting far out that there will be another better cheaper range finder on the market.
It looks like that bipod you suggested has more features than the Harris. I guess I am getting to the nitty gritty of my shopping list. What muzzle break for the Sendero?
Well the muzzle break that I have was made for me by a local gun smith. I said that I wanted less recoil and less muzzle jump for faster
shot recovery. And he made one that works perfect. So maybe make a couple of phone calls and see what you can find. You should be looking for something with about three chambers on it.
I read about muzzle brakes on Chuck Hawks page. Apparently they make the rifle way louder? He says muzzle brakes are illegal in Africa because it destroys the hearing of the guides not wearing hearing protection. He also said that even with hearing protection it can ruin your hearing. I guess I will wait and see if I desire one.
What is the big round thing on your barrel just before the stock? Does it absorb shock from recoil or something?
SEAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great site man! Looks like you still can not shoot straight! LOL
Let us get together soon and go to Moon Pass and dump some ammo. My .338/06 is at Mel Doyle’s in Plummer getting that new Muzzle Break put on it, finally. I did miss that Elk last year at 630yards according to my new Bushnell 1500 ARC! Give me a ring when you have a chance.
PS. how is your Hydrogen fuel cell working by the way….?
Take care buddy, Mike :{)
The big round thing is a barrel de resonator. It changes the harmonics
of the barrel for better accuracy. I have not had a chance to shoot with it yet but as soon as I do I will put a post on the website.
O and a muzzle break is MUCH louder so keep that in mind.
hello. what would be the cost of getting into the sport and what caliber to use. i am 16 and weigh 70kg 6foot 1 inch i was thinking the 338 lupa of 308. any info would be great.
Well the cost can go just about as far as you want. If you want to compete professionally, you should expect to pay about at the VERY least 1,500 to 2,000 dollars for a rifle and about the same for a good scope. Plus the cost of your every day equipment. But that does not mean that you can’t do the same for less. One thing that I take pride in is doing what the other guy can do with less equipment and for half the cost. My total for gun, scope and equipment is about 2,200 and that includes range finder, muzzle break, new stock, PDA, good ballistic software, bipods and a very good scope. Now there is always going to be something new for shooting or something else that is better than what you bought last year and its up to you to decide when to call it quits. And as far as caliber, I would say that 308 or 338 would be the best choice. They are all around good bullets.
I need to figure out what height rings I need to get my scope closer to the barrel, but not sure how to measure. When ordering rings, do they measure from the centerline of the scope to the top of the base?
Well don’t quote me on this but I’m pretty sure that they measure from the bottom of the scope tube to the top of the base. Most of the time if you have a ring in mind, when you oder it tell the the size of the objective (i.e. 50mm) and tell them that you need rings for that size and they should know if you need small, medium or high rings. When I had my 50mm I only had medium rings and it give me about 3/16 clearance between the bottom of the objective to the top of my barrel.
Thanks for keeping a nice clean site I’m new here but have been lurking around alot of sites for awhile, I was pleasantly suprised when I cautiously opened the pic a nice view you’d be suprised what that means “out there”. I endorse your .308 as a beginner cartridge i’ve been shooting one for 20 yrs+ and find it just as awesome as it was in service to our country. Don’t get to go long-range around here much due to geography but still get a thrill making contact at all ranges. my rig is a fn p.b.r. w\ a mcmillan a-3 in .308 usually shoot off expedient bags. sorry for such a windy reply just glad to find some kindred spirits.
Forgot to talk about glass Leupold has never let me down I own several from m-8 fixed 4x on a .30-06 {shoots under 1 moa easily} to my 4-12 VX-II on my pbr. I was really exited when they started putting clicks in th VX-II’s. Stoney point makes really nice knobs for these that screw on in place of your caps. I also have an older Leupold on a 6-284 in 6-18 that doesn’t have clicks and I find myself using Kentucky windage on it instead of proven dope. I have tried some expensive europeans like Kahles and Zeiss and they are good but everyone has to decide how much is good enough. Leupold VX-II’s seem to be where I look first. Have 2 Burris a scout scope on a .35 whelen and a 4-12 compact I’m planning on trying on my 6-284 it’s a lightweight deer rig. They were both bargains from Midway and are not proven much yet, the scout scope is only 2yrs old.
Thank you f.n.user, it is nice to hear there are still good people out there. And as far as Leupold I cant agree more. I wish I could afford a Mark 4 but it is a bit out of my price range. The scope I have now is a LRS-1 and for the price I could not do better. The glass is more like Bushnell but that is good enough for me. Any way welcome to LongRangeShooter and if there is any thing that you need or any suggestions or topics you would like to talk about please don’t hesitate to ask. You can leave you question here or you can email me at
sean@longrangeshooter.com
What do you think of the new .416 military round? Do you think we will see a Remington 700 chambered in it anytime soon?
The rounds are for sale now:
ttp://www.barrettrifles.com/store/web/c-69-ammunition.aspx
Not anytime soon but I think will see it sometime. There are already some 408 cal. for sell click here to see.
hello
Hope you can help me!
My husband seen a program about something called HUSKAMAW scope..i have searched the web everywhere..can you give me a site to look at it..or at least explain what i am looking for……Christmas shopping….ty
Absolutely, Huskamaw is a scope that most people think that John Burns uses to shoot long range, but its not. Here is a link that explains what it is you are looking at. And here is a link that has the Huskamaw scope for sell to buy for your husband. Hope this helps if you need more info let me know.
Thank you so much!
I am pleasently surprised at how reasonably priced the Huskamaw scope is…thinking i will have a happy fella at Christmas.:smile:
I am sure i would have never found it is not for your help!!
You are very welcome. If you are your husband have any questions in the future feel free to ask.
Aaalo there Sean. How about giving me a call and let us get out there before season opens, sometime soon huh. Maybe we can go up there by your place, if it goes out there to 500 or so would be fine. I had the chance to watch that movie again and witness one of those .30/378 Weatherby Magnums smoke an Antelope around 1012 yards! Interesting scope he uses, I wonder what it is? Absolutely incredible man, then there was another guy right next to him that backed it up with a 1116 yard shot and dumped another Antelope! Simply incredible! Did you see his wife’s shot too, she is no bigger than half a minute, she dumped that Bull Elk while it was walking at a fantastic 840yards! I did get my son’s rifle done by the way. The 8mm/06 with the thumbhole sporter. Sure looks nice with the laminated stock. I’ll bring it when we go out. Take care, stay safe and many Blessings to you and yours!
Mike :{)
Sounds good see ya on Thursday
Sean, what an enjoyable afternoon. Thanks again so very much. I look forward to going again soon. It was amazing to see the bullet drop/windage we used to get that ole’ .338/06 to smack that little piece of steel! 4′ for windage and about 20′ for drop, LOL! That 8mm/06 sure shot nicely too! I really enjoyed shooting yours though, what a schweet rifle thanks again.
Sean, have you had the chance to watch that Thompson’s Long Range Shooting video? Do you know what type of scope he uses to make those Long Range shots, the one that you can use the camera with and see on screen what the shooter actually ses?
:{)
Hey there Sean…Melvin and I were talking. I challeneged him and his .300 Weatherby Mag to the 600yard shoot this weekend when he is off, Fewest bullets to get it. I’ll bring my range finder to satisfy his curiousity :{)
I will be there, can I join the challenge
By the way I haven’t watched the Thompson Long Range video yet so I don’t know what scope they use and I tried to look for it on the internet but could not find it.
Yes you most certainly may! I will bring my only copy of “Thompson’s Long Range Shooting-nothing under 300 yards” so you can see/enjoy it. :{)
I stumbled across an interesting website taht I wanted to share. http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/traj/traj.html
Nice site! I shoot long 600 yds almost weekly. I use a Rem 40-X in .308 and also do all load test groups at 300 yds. The bullet hasn’t had a chance to go to sleep at 100 yds. Also, the group has a tendency to be so small that it’s hard to get a definative size as the .308 hole just gets bigger. I normally run a Sierra 175 gn HPBT behind 43.1 gn of Varget. One thing I noticed was your use of 210 gn bullets in a .308? What kind of twist does your barrel have? 1 in 10? A 1 in 12 twist doesn’t seem to like the heavier bullets. My twist lets me go up to 180 gn and easily carries 1000 yds. Much beyond that it becomes a stretch. Last question, do you breakin your barrels? Keep up the good work!
Well the 210gr bullets that I use suggest a 1 in 11 inch twist but my 1 in 12 doesn’t seem to have a problem shooting them. Behind my 210gr Berger is 94.5 grains of Hodgens H1000, pushing my bullets to about 3200fps holding just over a half inch at 200 yards. But if I use 95 grains, my bullet becomes so unstable that it will tumble and actually hit a target sideways at 100 yards. Berger bullets are wild cats but when you get the load right the are the best you can get. As far as breaking in a barrel, absolutely. That was the first thing that I did when I got my rifle. It is really the only way to go if you want the best accuracy.
OK, I got into one of those breakroom discussions of a guy saying he could make a kill with a 22LR rimfire at 200 yards.
I say BS, cold shot, not enough energy at the end of the flight.
I was also wondering the Bullet drop at 200yds for a 22LR..
Well assuming that he is using a 40 grain lead bullet that would put the muzzle velocity a little bit over 1,050 fps. Now if he has a zero at 100 yards (which he probably does not), he would have about 3 feet of bullet drop at 200 yards and about 64 ft-lb of energy. Now are we talking a kill on deer size game or small game like birds? Because if he is saying he can kill a deer at 200 yards
I would say he couldn’t kill a dog at that range.
actually I suspect he was watching this tv show the shooter or what ever and the rest is TV….. He said a Deer and he is full of a dark brown matter and he has his head in a dark smelly place!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the quick response……
In Reference to .308
I am in the process of building my .308 (POF Lower, DPMS SASS Upper, w/ Super Sniper 20×42 scope - was at a price I couldn’t pass up). The majority of my shooting history comes from being in the USMC (5.56 500yrds on Iron Sights) I’m interested in getting into some longer range shooting for future applications (plinking and hunting) would it be possible Sean to get a copy of the Ballistic Drop Chart you mentioned back on May 20th?
I’d be grateful of any help.
Thanks.
No problem Crosis all I need from you is your muzzle velocity, bullet wight, zero distance and what type of bullet you are shooting.